Keller’s Bakery in Linthicum did it the right way: They began their day in the wee hours of the morning, made doughnuts from scratch, and were open until sold out or closing, whichever came first. It was a true family business with handed down recipes and all the necessary drama. Sadly, the original owners sold the business last year and the new owners didn’t last too long.
For its time, Keller’s was inspiring. I can’t imagine how hard it must have been to keep making from scratch and still come in at the 80 cent per doughnut price range — all the while competing with Dunkin Donuts and the general public’s shifting disposition for convenience over quality. It’s the type of thing only a family business could do. Yes, they used shortening and a couple fillings tasted more assembled than made from scratch. Still, it’s incredible they maintained their price point all these years. And they actually thought about balancing sweetness, something even modern “artisinal” doughnut makers struggle with . The latter also have loads of non-scratch components, too. (Maybe I’ve argued about this a few times.)
Late last year I stopped by and the new owners had a sign that they’d be back the next day. Then, every time I visited, I’d see the same sign. I’ve been holding out hope Keller’s would reopen, but once their phone line was disconnected, I had to accept the hard truth.
We will miss you, Keller’s. Thanks for the memories (and marshmallow doughnuts)!